Sujataism: Dwaraka.

An ancient town that still looks ancient and seeped with history.
The five storyed temple is a beauty that words cannot describe.[cameras are strictly prohibited within].My pranams to the architect and the sculptors of the 16 th century, when this temple was built on a pre existing, dilapidated one.A fitting abode for Krishna avatar!

Luckily my very first visit to this temple in the evening coincided with a darshan that is known as 'Chappan Bhog.'A spread of 100's of savouries and sweets was offered by some devotee in pursuance of a vow,before the charming black idol of Krishna ,decorated in strings of pearls ,holding diamond encrusted shanku and chakram .
The spread reminded me of the sweets and savouries prepared at home and offered to Krishna on Krishna jeyanthi [birthday],every year, though it is a fraction of what was laid there at Dwaraka before Dwarakadeesh ! At Dwaraka the only other time such a amazing spread of dishes is laid out is on Deepavali.It was literally a feast fit only for gods!

Had a splendid darshan with crowds of devotees milling and pushing around and chanting aloud 'Dwarakadeesh ki jai' in unison.
A very touching scene of devotion. A full flow of bhakthi that was electric as it is at Tirupati and Guruvayoor .I forgot what i wanted to seek travelling after having100's of miles and just stood soaking in the sacred beauty of Krishna as Narayana.

Kulasekara azwars [800AD] lines came to my mind

" I feel blessed if i smear the mud that has turned into slush by the tears of your devotees on my forehead,Ranganatha"
Though he was a mighty king ,he nevertheless bowed before the faith of the humble devotees of Krishna.

And ThondaradipodiAzhwar's [9 th cent AD] heartfelt verses:

'On seeing your sacred form Sri Ranga ,my head spins and i whirl around forgetting myself and at the same time my legs melt and is unable to support me .Seeing me thus many call me mad! What do i care? Without bhakti in you, they appear to be mad to me!

I couldn't and didn't see the arthi ,having pushed away by the devotees all crowding in that small hall and staying put at the space before the deity each eager to behold the sight .A tall man eclipsed my view completely as well as 'Devaki matha's' ,whose idol is enshrined right in front of her son,a few yards away.

Southindians, Gujarati's, Bengali's Marati's, tribals, pandas ,rich and poor people from various parts of Bharat mingled together and swayed with palms folded to the pealing of bells and rent the air with intermittent chant 'Victory to thee lord of Dwaraka'.

There are several shrines for other deities ,as well as for Adi Shankara around the main sanctum on the outside ,within the temple complex.In one of his visits Adi Shankara established his 'mutt' at Dwaraka in the 7 th cent AD.

Next day in the morning i was quite blessed to see the flag being changed on the top of the temple.This is also in fulfilment of vows taken ,costing more than a lakh , with the queue ---6 months long!
The only unsatisfactory note in this wonderful spiritual experience is that unlike Thirupullani, Puri and Badrinath--the other char dhams where one can can take a dip in the sea and the hot spring [which i have done],in here one is unable to do so .but can take bath in the river flowing by in its confluence with the sea.

The beach looks moss laden and rocky and was dissuaded by the hotel manager and others who said it was unfit for bathing and quite dangerous to do so in these seas.