Mahabalipuram

Who wouldn't have visited this sea shore, famous for its rock cut temples and sculptures ,after having taken residence in Chennai for long?At least once in one's lifetime either as a school excursion or as a family outing.

I have visited this place on and off since my childhood and the most recent being a couple of years back ,a few months after the Tsunami .

The entire complex looked exceedingly neat with well designed pathways, lawns and all encroachments removed and was free from pestering hawkers.It was totally transformed from my past recollections ,of a collection of drab, and decaying stone monuments to a lively , enticing and shiny and well maintained open air museum.The lack of tree cover then was the only drawback making the trip around , hot and tiring. It had been declared as a world heritage site by the UN in the intervening years, hence this magical make over.

There were Western tourists in large numbers . I even remember the the jealous look on a very well turned out and good looking English woman when her equally rich and handsome husband [ we always assume that couples to be married] or her boy friend ,stopped to capture on his camera a group of dusky young women labourers and thanking them with a smile and few notes. Human nature is same all over. the world.The straying tendencies in men and the jealousy and possessiveness of their women!

Now I have strayed away from the observations of ancient monuments to timeless emotions.To get back , I also visited the nearby Thalasayana perumal temple .An temple built in medieval times by Vijayanagar emperors.

It was smelly, unkempt and looked like a beast near the beauty of the well maintained shore temple.I also recollect seeing groups of pigs grunting and running loose in the perimeter.After a quick darshan we beat a hasty retreat.

A free weekly delivered at home informed me that Bhoodat Aazhwar's birth anniversary was to be celebrated in the last week of October to the first of Novembers at Thalasayana perumal koil.The nandavanam at front of the temple is said to be the birth place of this Vaishnavaite saint.

Of late having become very familiar with aazhwars through their hymns, my interest perked up and I decided to visit the temple, which I found so offending in my last visit, with a new insight and understanding.How could i not heed Aazhwar's call when his extortion to all imbeciles to stop flattering people who are constantly engaged in the task of only enlarging their stomachs and go on a pilgrimage chanting Naryana at every step and sanctify this land, still ringing in my ears?

How ever the week long nagging rain put me off from embarking on this trip. Dark clouds kept massing without fail every day and I didn't fancy getting stranded in a waterlogged street or to be drenched to the skin .

Today [4 th nov] being the penultimate day of the 'Bhoodat aazhwar avatara mahotsavam I decided to risk it and attend the festivities at Sthalsayana koil at Mahabalipuram.

We skimmed through the famous cum infamous ECR --east coast road [ smooth roads cum accidents] that was dotted with quaint ,castle like beach houses at every quarter km,and reached the place in a hours time.

My original plan was only to see the abandoned sannidhi of Shtalasayana perumal at the shore temple of the Pallava period---7 th cent and then visit the present temple.But some how I landed in other areas as well.In here, 50 kms away, it was clear blue skies and bright sunshine without a patch of dark clouds unlike Chennai that was dreary and rainy!I stopped to observe details and to take some snaps as well.

Believe it or not or call it history repeating itself or dejavu!When I came out of the shore temple a group of middle aged Westerners were making a beeline to it. A balding and spry man broke the ranks to photograph two dusky young woman labourers who were carrying a load of sand on their heads to fill up some wet patches.A plump woman , probably his wife waited for him and looked on .With a indulgent smile .

Photos.Top .The shore temple at Mahabalipuram. It is a world heritage site.

Below.The sea --Bay of Bengal near the shore temple.

Ps. The complex is well maintained .The only jarring not and a important one is that the public conveniences are under lock and key.